The Earth Moved in Ecuador: From Chili Dogs to 8.0 Earthquake

When my cousin invited me to his wedding in Ecuador, I was initially hesitant—it just wasn’t on my radar. But after realizing it was an opportunity too good to miss, I was sold. To avoid the 12-hour slog from Europe, we planned a "stateside" layover to break up the travel. It was a perfect plan... right up until the chili dog.

During a long wait in Miami, my partner decided to try his first-ever chili dog. We cannot, in good conscience, recommend them.

Several hours later, as our plane taxied toward the runway for takeoff, the chili dog made its final, dramatic appearance. Despite my partner's mortified insistence that he was fine, the pilot performed a literal U-turn. In a deafening silence, we gathered our bags for the ultimate "walk of shame," escorted off the plane by firm but friendly police officers.

Stranded at 10 PM with no luggage and a tour guide waiting for us in Quito, we felt defeated. Thankfully, American Airlines saved the day with a hotel and vouchers.

Twenty-four hours late, we finally touched down in Quito at midnight. Our luggage was waiting, and the spectacular views from our airport hotel provided the first hint that, despite the rocky start, this trip was going to be worth it.

The Avenue of the Volcanoes

After a fleeting glimpse of Quito, we headed south. We could have flown to the wedding, but we didn’t want to miss the scenery. We briefly considered renting a car but quickly thought better of it; navigating aggressive local traffic and erratic road conditions requires a level of "bravery" we just didn't have.

Instead, we hired a private guide with a people carrier—the best decision of the trip. He was worth his weight in gold as he navigated the Avenue of the Volcanoes, a dramatic route skirting the Amazon rainforest. Having a personal driver and interpreter allowed us to actually relax and soak in the vast expanse of valleys, forests, and jungle while learning about the local way of life.

Playing catch-up meant two long days of driving instead of the leisurely three-day drive we had planned. Even with the skipped stops, the scenery was breathtaking, shifting from jagged peaks to lush, high-altitude greenery. By the time we pulled into Cuenca for a quick stop, we finally felt we had truly arrived.

High Altitudes and One Final Curveball

On our final day, we headed west toward the coastal city of Guayaquil, crossing the highest point of our entire trip. At 4,450m, the view across El Cajas National Park is a sight to behold; with over 700 glacial lakes and misty cloud forests, it felt like stepping into another world. Seeing wild llamas grazing along the route was the perfect final memory to tuck away.

They say things always come in threes, and the universe had one last curveball to throw before we left. After checking in for our flight, I was summoned to the customs office. My heart sank as the police asked to inspect several silver-foil packets they had flagged in my suitcase.

It was a true "facepalm" moment when I realized it was just the local coffee I’d packed as souvenirs. After a very nervous unpacking session and a few wry smiles from the officers, I was cleared to go. Apparently, even my luggage couldn’t leave the country without a bit of drama!

Things to do

There is so much to see and do in Ecuador, it's too much to list here but below are a few highlights to whet your appetite. 

• Hike the Quilotoa Loop: Visit the stunning emerald-green crater lake located in a volcano caldera.

• Visit the Inca Ruins at Ingapirca: The largest archaeological site in Ecuador.

• Tour the Amazon Rainforest: Stay in a jungle lodge to experience high biodiversity, canopy walks, and indigenous culture.

• Explore Cotopaxi National Park: Hike or ride horses around one of the world's highest active volcanoes.

• Birdwatching in Mindo Cloud Forest: Visit this biodiverse area known for hundreds of bird species, including hummingbirds, and for zip-lining.